Voltmeter

[DaleM]

I've had an Autometer voltmeter connected for some time and never put much stock in it as it seemed to waiver quite a bit in its readings - like swinging fairly wildly between 13 and 15 volts pretty often.

Today I charged the battery, since the car has been sitting for some time awaiting some parts, and started the car. It typically showed its great range of movement. I shut the car off after a minute or so just to ensure it'd start again. It did but I noticed the voltmeter 'stuck' at just under 12 volts and never moved.

Turn it off and restart it, it may stay at 12 volts and never move or it may peg past 16 for a few seconds then go back to wavering between 13 and 15.

I've not had trouble with the battery (other than it going dead due to no use), alternator or voltage regulator in the past. Thoughts before I pull the alternator and have it checked? Bad gauge? Is the battery suddenly going? Alternator or regulator going bad? Battery is fairly new and measures just at 12 volts across the poles although that's just after charging and starting it a few times in the driveway.

[Ark68SS]

First, check that the connections at the horn relay, voltage regulator, alternator charging wire, and junction block on the radiator support are clean and tight. Use your hand held voltmeter and check voltage at guage; if the hand-held shows a different reading than the gauge, then the gauge is probably bad. If it shows the same reading, then check the + terminal on the alternator for the fluctuation. If there is a lot of variance there, I'd go to AutoZone and buy a voltage regulator & plug it in for a test.
BillL

[DaleM]

I need to pull the gauge from its cup to check the connections there. Personally I suspect the gauge as it's always been a bit flaky to me. It's the inexpensive model from Autometer and I only installed it on the Elky because I had it and it may not be grounded well.

To be honest, the Elky has been sitting in the drive for a few months without being driven or even started. I guess the weather could have had an effect on the other electrical parts... With no heater and not enough room in the garage to park it, it tends to be forgotten about when it gets too cold. With weather in the 60s here recently and wishful thinking that my exhaust system will arrive at Summit any month now (it's only been on order thru Pypes since 1/14 and latest 'delay' is it's expected at Summit by 3/22), I need to get the old exhaust and headers off and the stock manifolds (as well as stock alt and p/s braces) on.

There's no race tomorrow and if it's as nice as it was today I'll check out the voltmeter and other connections and get back with what I find.

[DaleM]

Well, had to charge the battery again to get it to turn over. Voltmeter sill pretty much jumps all over the 13-16 range when running at a steady 1000-1200 rpms. Wish I had a hydrometer to check the battery for a dead cell. Battery is dated Aug 2006 and even though it's a 65 month battery, it may be going bad with very little activity over the winter. Maybe I'll pull it and have it checked tomorrow. I have no idea how old the alternator is either. It's a chrome aftermarket unit with no numbers on it. I have a 55A core and Autozone has them for $50. Might have it checked out as well. All connections seem tight and voltmeter is grounded to the firewall.

[Rich-L79]

I'm going to guess it's the regulator or the alternator. Checking the alternator is as easy as taking it into your local parts store for a free spin and test. If that checks out, try a different regulator. If you are like me you have a spare lying around you could try out without much trouble. In fact, I'd trust a good used one over a new made-offshore one anyway.

[tunes]

It sounds like a regulator to me. Let us know what you find out.

[DaleM]

I'm going tomorrow to get a new alternator and might just as well pick up a regulator as well. I'll report back on what happens.

[DaleM]

Looks like either the alternator and/or the regulator was the problem. Replaced them both and now voltmeter sits easily at 13-13.5 volts. Just out of curiosity does anyone know if the three rubber insulated feet on the regulator bolts are available anywhere besides one of the aftermarket suppliers? I don't mind paying $7-$10 for a set but another $10 for shipping is a bit extreme for a single item.

[Ark68SS]

Check at a hardware store for "well nuts", that's what they're called. My local ACE hardware has a box with a variety of sizes in it. If you can't find them locally, holler at me with the thread size & I'll get them for you.
BillL

[DaleM]

I measure them as 10-24. I have one I didn't put back on due to its location and wasn't about to pull the grille to make room. The screws and nuts are fine, it's the rubber that's deteriorated over the years and had to pretty much destroy them to get the screws out. I'll check tomorrow at a couple of shops. I know there's a Lowe's across town and I think there's an ACE closer.

I found these on Ground Up (and several other sites) but again, the cost with shipping is prohibitive.

324

[chevbbcar]

You mightwant to look at these. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/62-75-CHEVELLE-CAMARO-NOVA-VOLTAGE-REG-MOUNT-NUTS-NOS_W0QQitemZ370351982053QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors _Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item563ab2c5e5

[DaleM]

Thanks! I left a msg asking how many are inlcuded in the auction price. $3.00 is a bit more realistic for shipping.